Thursday, 22 September 2011

WAVE

Waves form when the sea's surface is blown by a strong wind across a sufficient 'fetch' (the distance taken to build a wave). The water within the wave remains constant, each level moving in an orbital path, like rollers in a conveyor belt, irrespective of the distance the wave has travelled. In shallow water a wave's path elongates and becomes elliptical, before breaking on a shore.

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